For this project, I wanted to replace broken slide doors for the bedroom closet with barn doors. This is my first attempt to build doors of any kind. That is why I tried to keep the design as simple as possible.
Miter Saw or 7-1/4 in. Circular Saw ( I usually prefer Miter to make straight cuts)
Countersink drill bit
Screws: 1-1/4 in. drywall screws
Kreg 1-1/4 in pocket-hole screws
8 pcs (1 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft.) Premium Kiln-Dried Square Edge Whitewood Common Board $7.87 /each
14 pcs (1 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft.) Premium Tongue and Groove Pattern Whitewood Board @ $4.54 /each
4 pcs (1 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft.) Trim Board Primed Finger-Joint @ $2.98 /each
An approximate materials cost for building two barn doors is $160.
Plan the door size. In my case, I want to cover the closet door opening with two doors. Each door is going to be 83 in. tall and 37 1/2 in. wide.
Cut door frame: For this, I used 1 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft common board and cut two sides @ 83 in. long and two top and bottom in between pieces @26 1/2 in. To make each door 37 1/2 in. wide, I subtracted two board width (sides). They are 5 1/2 in. wide each, which makes the middle 26 1/2 in. long.
Using Kreg Jig, I secured it to the board with clamp and drilled holes for the pocket screws to secure frame together.
I did two pocket screws per each side of the board.
At same time I also cut the channel for the bottom since the barn door kit comes with the floor guide.
This is just a 1/4 in. deep by 1 in. cut for the bottom pieces of the door.
I secured the sides to each other using 1 /14 in. pocket screws. To ensure proper fitment at first, since I did not use glue yet. Because I will take it apart and use wood glue after cutting cross bar.
For the cross bar, I marked the middle of the board on top and bottom and slid it under the frame.
This will allow me to mark where the board needs to be cut so it can fit as cross support for within the frame.
Since I have two doors for one door cross beam will go to the right and on another door it will go to the left.
I cut the boards as marked to ensure tight fitment withing frame.
Then using Kreg Jig and drilled pocket holes on both cross bar and the frame.
Put the frame together. I took the frame apart then attached the sides with pocket screws and a little bit of wood glue. Since side facing down is what will be front, we do not want excel glue to leak to the front.
Then I attached to cross bar with a little bit of wood glue and pockets screws as well.
Assemble back with 1×2 in and tongue and groove boards.
I cut all tongue and groove and 1×2 in. boards @ 83 in. long just like door height. Then attached 1×2 in. board to the edge as starting point. This will allow me to hold tongue and groove boards in the middle. We will attach another 1×2 in. board to another side edge.
To make tongue and groove boards fit together I used rubber mallet so they will lock into one another.
Step Seven: Drill pilot holes and countersink.
Since these boards would crack if we just drive 1 1/4 in. screws to secure them to the door frame. I first pre-drilled all the holes and use countersink drill bit. I pre-drilled two holes per boards for top and bottom.
For the sides, I spaced screw holes about 1 foot apart.
Because tongue and groove boards will not perfectly fit the width of the door, I had to cut 1 in. from one of the boards to make it fit.
This is back of the barn door before we secure it to the frame.
Step Eight: Permanently secure all backing boards.
I lifted the tongue and groove boards out and apply wood glue.
Then lowered the boards and screwed them in. In addition, I drilled holes for the cross bar and screwed them in using 1 1/4 in. drywall screws.
Allowed some time for wood glue to dry and assembled second door.
I also had leftovers trim all pieces since they were all longer than required.
I’m certain I can find a use for them down the road.
Step Nine: Install door.
For hardware, I used a kit from amazon that made it very easy to install.